INHIBITORY EFFECTS OF A NOVEL ASCORBIC DERIVATIVE, DISODIUM ISOSTEARYL 2-O-L-ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE ON MELANOGENESIS.

• TR Number: 474
• Keywords: MEL-300A, Macroscopic views, Melanin content, Melanin synthesis, MelanoDerm, Microscopic views, Skin whitening

This study by researchers at Toyo Beauty Co., Ltd., Jichi Medical University, and Kinki University (Japan) demonstrated how Mattek’s MelanoDerm 3-D human skin tissue equivalent containing both keratinocytes and melanocytes can be used as an in vitro test of the safety and effectiveness of a novel skin whitening agent. Researchers from Toyo Beauty Co., Ltd., Jichi Medical University and Kinki University (Japan) investigated the inhibitory effects of a novel amphiphilic ascorbic derivative, disodium isostearyl 2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCP-IS-2Na), synthesized from a hydrophilic ascorbic derivative, sodium-2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCP-Na), on melanogenesis in cultured human melanoma cells, normal human melanocytes, and three-dimensional cultured human skin models (MelanoDerm). Melanin synthesis in melanoma cells treated with VCP-IS-2Na at 300µM and melanocytes treated with VCP-IS-2Na at 100µM decreased to 23% and 52% of that in non-treated cells, respectively, and the cell viability was not affected. VCP-IS-2Na also significantly suppressed the cellular tyrosinase activity of melanoma cells and melanocytes. Melanin synthesis in human skin models was evaluated by macro- and microscopic observations of its pigmentation and quantitative measurements of melanin. Treatment of the human skin models with 1.0% VCP-IS-2Na did not inhibit cell viability, while melanin synthesis was decreased to 21% of that in the control. In contrast, L-ascorbic acid (VC) and VCP-Na did not seem to inhibit melanin synthesis and cellular tyrosinase activity. These results indicate that VCP-IS-2Na may be an effective whitening agent for the skin, and we expect the application of VCP-IS-2Na in the cosmetic industry.