DI-PPG-2-MYRETH-10 ADIPATE REDUCES IRRITATION AND INFLAMMATION CAUSED BY COSMETIC PRODUCTS.

• TR Number: 333
• Authors: Joseph¹, L.B., DeShields², L., Pereira¹, A.G., Stoudemayer, M.J., Langley¹, N.A. ¹Croda Inc., Edison, NJ 08837, ²S.K.I.N. Inc., Conshohocken, PA 19428.

RL Goldemberg has stated that nonionic surfactants – particularly ethoxylated esters – act as counter irritants in amphoteric/anionic shampoo systems; several studies in our laboratories have demonstrated this desirable property (ethoxylated modified glycerides, and PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate). In the search for new molecules, we synthesized an alkoxylated myristyl alcohol derivative Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA). DMA is both ethoxylated and propoxylated, which accounts for its multifunctionality. This emollient di-ester has multifunctional properties including broad solvent compatibility, a wide solubility range, and irritation mitigation. To study the irritation and inflammation mitigation properties of DMA 3 different surfactant based systems were investigated using 2 in vitro assays and 1 clinical trial. The addition of 5% DMA to 10% SLS significantly decreased the SLS induced cell death by 30% in the EpiOcular™ Model. Very mild surfactant systems cause intercellular permeability, the addition of 5% DMA significantly decreased the irritation potential in the TransEpithelial Permeability Model. Finally, female volunteers were patched using Occlusive Hill Top® chambers containing 1% SLS plus 0, 1, 5, 10% DMA, 100% DMA or dd water for 24H then examined using chromameter (Minolta CR 200) and scanning laser Doppler imager (Moor LDI). 100% DMA is less irritating than dd water. In 75% of the subjects DMA, at all concentrations, decreases the irritation of 1% SLS to that of dd water. From this data we can conclude DMA to be a potent mitigator of surfactant-induced irritation and inflammation. Future experimentation will try to elucidate the underlying mechanisms, which account for DMA’s ability to decrease the irritation and inflammation potential of surfactant based cosmetic products.