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Development of an in vitro Functional Assay to Evaluate the Occlusive Properties of Moisturizers on Dry Skin

Soonjin Hong, Prithwiraj Maitra, Audrey Nguyen, Kuniko Kadoya, Rahul C. Mehta
Abstract

Introduction: Dry skin is a hallmark of impaired skin barrier function. Moisturizers are a mainstay of treatment to help the skin retain moisture, and there is a high consumer demand for effective products. However, the development and optimization of new formulations are
hampered due to lack of reliable efficacy measures using in vitro models.
Methods: In this study, a microscopy-based barrier functional assay was developed using an in vitro skin model of chemically induced barrier damage to evaluate the occlusive activity of moisturizers.
Results: The assay was validated by demonstrating the different effects on barrier function between humectant (glycerol) and occlusive (petrolatum). Significant changes in barrier function were observed upon tissue disruption, which was ameliorated by commercial
moisturizing products.
Conclusion: This newly developed experimental method may be helpful to develop new and improved occlusive moisturizers for the treatment of dry skin conditions.

Keywords

EpiDerm (EPI-200), dry skin, xerosis, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, vasoline, Ultra-Sheer moisturizer, HA5 rejuvenation hydrator, dimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, moisturizers, humectant, glycerol, SDS, polyglutamic acid, lucifer yellow, LY, tracer assay, surface biotinylation assay, Confocal Raman microspectroscopy, cetyl ethylhexanoate, sorbitan stearate, methyl gluceth-20, polysorbate 60, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, cetearyl alcohol, Ceteareth-20, aminomethyl propanol, carbomer, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, potassium sorbate, HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, glycerin, butylene glycol, polysilicone-11, Bis-PEG-8 dimethicone, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, hydrolyzed HA, sodium hyaluronate, Vitis vinifera (grape) flower cell extract, Vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate, Alteromonas ferment extract, Porphyridium cruentum extract, whey protein, plankton extract, trehalose, urea, serine, algin, caprylyl glycol, pullulan, disodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, pentylene glycol, polymethylsilsesquioxane, glyceryl polyacrylate, sodium citrate, sea water, sucrose palmitate, hydroxyacetophenone, propanediol, potassium sorbate, citric acid, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80, silica, decyl glucoside, tromethamine

Materials Tested

petrolatum, petroleum jelly, Vasoline, Ultra-Sheer moisturizer, HA5 rejuvenation hydrator, dimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, moisturizers, humectant, glycerol, SDS, polyglutamic acid

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