Osborne, R., Mullins, L.A., Jarrold, B.B., McPhail, S., Robinson, L. The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio USA.

This study by scientists at Procter & Gamble demonstrated that MatTek’s MelanoDerm and EpiDermFT in vitro human skin equivalent tissues are useful tools in understanding how compounds used in anti-aging cosmetic products (“cosmeceuticals”) like N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide affect production of important skin matrix components including collagen. Introduction: As part of Procter & Gamble’s ongoing search for predictive tools to understand skin responses, P&G researchers evaluated tissue engineered human skin equivalent cultures (MatTek’s MelanoDerm™ and EpiDermFT™). Of particular interest is understanding of skin cell responses to compounds such as N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide, that are included in cosmetic skin care compositions. Such compositions include those intended for use by individuals with signs of facial skin aging. Objective: To define in vitro responses of epidermal-dermal (EpiDermFT) and melanocyte-containing (MelanoDerm) human skin equivalent cultures to compounds used in antiaging cosmetic products. Study Conclusions: In human skin equivalent cultures, compounds used in anti-aging cosmetic products, including N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide, increased production of skin matrix components. N-Acetyl glucosamine increased hyaluronan and collagen, acting synergistically with niacinamide to increase collagen. Skin equivalent cultures containing melanocytes transfer melanin from the melanocytes to keratinocytes, and pigment over time. Niacinamide, an inhibitor of melanocyte transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, and N-acetyl glucosamine, which inhibits activation of tyrosinase (the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis) act synergistically to reduce pigmentation. These results indicate that MatTek’s MelanoDerm and EpiDermFT in vitro human skin equivalent skin models provide a useful approach to understand skin care product compounds.


Anti-aging cosmetic products, Collagen synthesis, Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetic ingredients, EpiDerm-FT, EpiDermFT, Fontana-Masson stain, Hyaluronan, Melanin, MelanoDerm, Procollagen 1, Skin aging, Skin matrix components

Materials Tested

N-acetyl Glucosamine, Niacinamide

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