Mehta1, R.C., Vega1, V.L., Bachelor2, M.A., Oldach2, J. and Armento2, A.  1Research & Development, SkinMedica, Inc. An Allergan Company. 2MatTek Corporation.

Solar ultraviolet light damages skin resulting in photoaging which superimposed on chronological aging resulting in worsening of skin appearance. The extent of sun damage is proportional to the amount/time of UV-light exposure triggering visible changes such as dryness, rough texture, irregular pigmentation, telangiectasia, plaque-like thickening, deep creases and fine wrinkles. Both epidermis and dermis are affected. The mechanisms linked to photoaging have been extensively studied indicating that oxidative stress plays a critical role. Vitamin A derivates (retinoids) are the gold standard for the treatment of photoaged skin. To exert their biological actions, retinoids must be converted into the active form, retinoid acid (RA). Skin irritation is a major issue associated with topical retinoids decreasing patient compliance. Long term usage of prescription RA is associated with adverse events such as inflammatory bowel disease, keloids, and decreased night vision. To improve patient compliance without compromising efficacy we have developed a formulation that contains 0.5% encapsulated retinol in the presence of irritation control components (ECRe). In this study we compared the effects of ECRe (0.5%) with generic RA (0.05%) on simulated UV-treated skin. EpiDermFT™ tissues were produced in the MatTek Corporation and subjected or not to SS-UV-light radiation (200 mJ/cm2, 20 min). Immediately after UV-exposure, tissues were treated with ECRe or RA and allowed to recover (24 h). Total mRNA was isolated and gene expression was analyzed by qPCR. We observed that both formulations are able to induce COL1A1, COL3A1, ELN, LOXL1 and MFAP2 mRNA levels. Interestingly, ECRe treatment results in a higher induction of SOD1 mRNA and a MMP-1/TIMP-1 ratio that does not differ from those observed in non-radiated tissues. Taken together these data demonstrate that extracellular matrix components are equally induced by ECRe and RA in EpiDermFT™ tissues. Induction of these ECM components may help to prevent damage resulting from photoaging.


Anti-aging, COL1A1, COL3A1, EFT-400, EGF receptor, Elastin, Elastin related proteins, Extracellular matrix components, FBN1, FGF receptor, HB-EGF, Hyaluronic acid, IL-10, IL-1b, Inflammatory response, LOXL1, MFAP1, MFAP2, MMP-1, Oxidative stress, Photoaging, Skin aging, Skin wrinkling, SOD1, TIMP-1

Materials Tested

Encapsulated retinol, Retinol, UV

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