Joseph¹, L.B., DeShields², L., Pereira¹, A.G., Stoudemayer, M.J., Langley¹, N.A. ¹Croda Inc., Edison, NJ 08837, ²S.K.I.N. Inc., Conshohocken, PA 19428.

RL Goldemberg has stated that nonionic surfactants – particularly ethoxylated esters – act as counter irritants in amphoteric/anionic shampoo systems; several studies in our laboratories have demonstrated this desirable property (ethoxylated modified glycerides, and PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate). In the search for new molecules, we synthesized an alkoxylated myristyl alcohol derivative Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA). DMA is both ethoxylated and propoxylated, which accounts for its multifunctionality. This emollient di-ester has multifunctional properties including broad solvent compatibility, a wide solubility range, and irritation mitigation. To study the irritation and inflammation mitigation properties of DMA 3 different surfactant based systems were investigated using 2 in vitro assays and 1 clinical trial. The addition of 5% DMA to 10% SLS significantly decreased the SLS induced cell death by 30% in the EpiOcular™ Model. Very mild surfactant systems cause intercellular permeability, the addition of 5% DMA significantly decreased the irritation potential in the TransEpithelial Permeability Model. Finally, female volunteers were patched using Occlusive Hill Top® chambers containing 1% SLS plus 0, 1, 5, 10% DMA, 100% DMA or dd water for 24H then examined using chromameter (Minolta CR 200) and scanning laser Doppler imager (Moor LDI). 100% DMA is less irritating than dd water. In 75% of the subjects DMA, at all concentrations, decreases the irritation of 1% SLS to that of dd water. From this data we can conclude DMA to be a potent mitigator of surfactant-induced irritation and inflammation. Future experimentation will try to elucidate the underlying mechanisms, which account for DMA’s ability to decrease the irritation and inflammation potential of surfactant based cosmetic products.


Alkoxylated myristyl alcohol, DMA, Di-PPG-2 Myreth- 10 Adipate (DMA), EpiOcular, Ethoxylated esters, In vitro, Inflammation, Irritation, MSCK cells, MTT, MTT assay, Na- Fluorescein, Phosphate buffered saline, SLS

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