333. DI-PPG-2-MYRETH-10 ADIPATE REDUCES IRRITATION AND INFLAMMATION CAUSED BY COSMETIC PRODUCTS.

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Joseph¹, L.B., DeShields², L., Pereira¹, A.G., Stoudemayer, M.J., Langley¹, N.A. ¹Croda Inc., Edison, NJ 08837, ²S.K.I.N. Inc., Conshohocken, PA 19428. J. Invest. Dermatol., 122, (3), A7, Abstract #40, (2004).

Summary: RL Goldemberg has stated that nonionic surfactants - particularly ethoxylated esters - act as counter irritants in amphoteric/anionic shampoo systems; several studies in our laboratories have demonstrated this desirable property (ethoxylated modified glycerides, and PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate). In the search for new molecules, we synthesized an alkoxylated myristyl alcohol derivative Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA). DMA is both ethoxylated and propoxylated, which accounts for its multifunctionality. This emollient di-ester has multifunctional properties including broad solvent compatibility, a wide solubility range, and irritation mitigation. To study the irritation and inflammation mitigation properties of DMA 3 different surfactant based systems were investigated using 2 in vitro assays and 1 clinical trial. The addition of 5% DMA to 10% SLS significantly decreased the SLS induced cell death by 30% in the EpiOcular™ Model. Very mild surfactant systems cause intercellular permeability, the addition of 5% DMA significantly decreased the irritation potential in the TransEpithelial Permeability Model. Finally, female volunteers were patched using Occlusive Hill Top® chambers containing 1% SLS plus 0, 1, 5, 10% DMA, 100% DMA or dd water for 24H then examined using chromameter (Minolta CR 200) and scanning laser Doppler imager (Moor LDI). 100% DMA is less irritating than dd water. In 75% of the subjects DMA, at all concentrations, decreases the irritation of 1% SLS to that of dd water. From this data we can conclude DMA to be a potent mitigator of surfactant-induced irritation and inflammation. Future experimentation will try to elucidate the underlying mechanisms, which account for DMA’s ability to decrease the irritation and inflammation potential of surfactant based cosmetic products.

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EpiOcular Data Sheet

EpiOcular Specifications

EpiOcular Technical References

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Applications: Cosmetics analysis, Inflammation - eye (ocular), Irritation - eye (ocular), Personal care products

Keywords: Alkoxylated myristyl alcohol, DMA, Di-PPG-2 Myreth- 10 Adipate (DMA), EpiOcular, Ethoxylated esters, In vitro, Inflammation, Irritation, MSCK cells, MTT, MTT assay, Na- Fluorescein, Phosphate buffered saline, SLS

Endpoints: MTT assay

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